Tunis

Bab al-Bhar, the monumental gateway to the Medina of Tunis, stands as a portal between eras. Once part of the old city’s defensive walls, its arch now opens onto a lively plaza where daily life unfolds. Here, children play by fountains, artisans sell traditional textiles, and tea houses hum with conversation. Beyond lies the Medina, Tunisia’s historic heart. Its narrow streets branch into specialised souqs, each dedicated to specific crafts: copper smiths hammering wares, perfumers blending oils and leather workers stitching goods. At its centre rises Al-Zaytuna Mosque, the city’s oldest and most revered site. Stalls between these hubs offer ceramics, textiles, and other handcrafted treasures. Visit mid-week to navigate comfortably. On Saturdays, the crowds can become overwhelming, and on Sundays many shops stay closed.

The Bardo National Museum stands as Tunisia’s largest museum and an essential stop for history and art lovers. Housed in a majestic Hafsid-era palace (1228–1574), later expanded by the Ottomans, its collection ranks among the Mediterranean’s most significant — second only to Cairo’s Egyptian Museum in Africa. The museum’s Roman mosaics, unearthed during 19th-century excavations, offer vivid glimpses of ancient North African life, complemented by Punic and Hellenistic statues. A modern annexe has doubled the exhibition space, blending seamlessly with the historic palace. Guided tours come highly recommended to fully appreciate the museum’s treasures.

In the Medina of Tunis, every winding alley converges on Al-Zaytuna Mosque (literally the Mosque of the Olive). Founded in 734 on a former church site and rebuilt in the 9th century, it stands among the world’s oldest mosques. This cultural landmark is cherished by locals and visitors alike. The mosque’s courtyard is framed by over 200 columns repurposed from Roman Carthage, and its square Almohad-style minaret dominates the skyline. Though only Muslims may enter the prayer halls, you can admire the courtyard from Café Panorama’s terrace.

Tunis reveals its scholarly heritage through a collection of beautifully preserved madrasas, each bearing witness to centuries of intellectual pursuit. Over 20 madrasas are spread over the Medina of Tunis, some of them seven centuries old. The role these madrasas played has evolved over time. The Madrasa Slimania, founded by 18th-century ruler Ali Pasha, stands out with its ornate prayer hall and elevated entrance porch. Where student cells once housed scholars, medical professionals now work beneath the same vaulted ceilings. Nearby, the Madrasa El Bachia has transitioned from Quranic school to artisan workshops, its courtyard fountain silent but its creative spirit alive. The Madrasa Palmier (or Madrasa Ennakhla) maintains its original purpose as a centre for Quranic studies, its namesake palm still shading the courtyard behind formidable studded doors. Meanwhile, El Khaldounia represents a bridge between tradition and modernity. Established in 1896 near Souk Al Attarine, this progressive institution now serves as a bilingual library, honouring Ibn Khaldoun’s legacy of critical thought.

Avenue Habib Bourguiba, the grand central boulevard of Tunis, channels Parisian elegance with its tree-lined median, sidewalk cafés and historic facades. The thoroughfare, named after Tunisia’s first president, serves as a busy commercial hub and an open-air museum of 20th-century history, flanked by landmarks like the French Embassy and the neo-Byzantine Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. Dominating the eastern end, the Tunis Clock Tower rises 38 metres above Place du 7 Novembre. Its gilded, lattice-patterned design blends modernist and traditional motifs, glowing amber after dark. Though functionally modest (locals joke about its reliability), the tower’s height and central roundabout position make it an unavoidable landmark. By day, the avenue thrums with shoppers and coffee drinkers; by evening, it becomes a stage for leisurely promenades. For visitors, it’s less about individual sights than the collective energy: the hum of conversation, the scent of orange blossoms, and the weight of history beneath your feet.

Cathédrale St-Vincent-de-Paul, a striking 1883 landmark on Place de l’Indépendance, embodies Tunis’s colonial-era architectural eclecticism. Its yellow facade blends Gothic, Byzantine and Moorish elements in a bold (if uneven) fusion overlooking the vibrant square. The cathedral shares this iconic space with the "I Love Tunis" sign, making it a prime spot for photos. Around them, Habib Bourguiba Avenue thrums with energy, reflecting the city’s layered history.

Kasbah Square, a monumental plaza at the entrance to Medina, holds deep significance in Tunisia’s history. Once the site of a fortified citadel (demolished post-independence), it now anchors administrative buildings like Tunis City Hall and the National Monument — a memorial to pivotal national events. Facing the iconic Kasbah Mosque, the square blends tradition and modernity with its red Tunisian flags and iconic black lanterns. Since 2011, it has also become a gathering place for political demonstrations, including historic sit-ins demanding government reform.

Built in the 17th century, Sidi Youssef Dey Mosque was the first Ottoman-style mosque in Tunis, designed by Andalusian architect Ibn Ghalib. Its eclectic mix of influences reflects the era’s cultural exchanges. Flanked by Turkish souqs — El Trouk (once tailors, now clothing and embroidery), El Berka (formerly a slave market, later jewellery traders), and El Bechamkia (slippers and shoes) — the mosque served the city’s Ottoman-era merchants. The minaret, topped with a distinctive green-tiled pyramidal crown, became a model for later Ottoman designs in Tunis. Its octagonal shape, novel at the time, subtly asserted Ottoman authority. Inside, the mosque houses the tombs of Youssef Dey, commander of the janissaries, and his family. Sidi Youssef remains an active mosque, so plan visits outside prayer times, when non-Muslim visitors may enter. Its striking architecture, both inside and out, anchors a neighbourhood rich with history.

The Central Market of Tunis fills an airy, timber-beamed hall with the rhythm of daily commerce. Butchers, spice merchants and household vendors share space with stalls piled high with glazed ceramics, woven handicrafts and seafood caught just hours before. The scent of dried harissa and fresh figs hangs between the aisles, while small eateries serve workers and visitors alike. Negotiate cheerfully — vendors expect haggling, and partaking in this ancient custom is part of the experience.

Souq des Chechias preserves Tunisia’s crimson-hatted heritage beneath vaulted brick arches designed to funnel Mediterranean breezes. Once the engine of a million-strong fez trade, its remaining artisans still hand-felt wool into the iconic blood-red chechias, now joined by rainbow variations for West African markets. The 17th-century complex, divided into Grand and Petit Souq, showcases Moorish ingenuity: thick walls buffer summer heat, while roof apertures cast chessboard shadows across the arcades. Observe craftsmen pressing steaming wool over wooden moulds, a technique unchanged since Ottoman times. Nearby, the Perfumiers Souq (al-Attarine) contributes amber and jasmine notes to the air. At dusk, traders slide shut the souq’s nail-studded doors painted with protective calligraphy, but the alley’s café lingers with students debating over sweet tea. Unlike medina stalls hawking mass-produced souvenirs, this is a living industry, where a hat’s price reflects days of kneading, dyeing, and sun-drying. For authenticity, seek shops with Zaghouan-dyed wool, the deepest scarlet.

Souq Al-Attarine has perfumed Tunis since the 13th century, its stone-vaulted alleys still redolent with amber, crushed jasmine and rosewater. Nestled against Al-Zaytuna Mosque’s northern wall, this labyrinth of scent operates as both a medieval trading hub and a modern beauty bazaar. Vendors measure aromatic oils from glass decanters, while bundles of dried henna and musk-filled pendants dangle above cedarwood counters. Unlike quieter specialty souqs, Al-Attarine thrums with dual energy: devout shoppers selecting prayer-time fragrances brush shoulders with tourists sampling orange-blossom colognes. While some shops now stock imported perfumes and the dupes, seek out fourth-generation distillers for traditional floral Ma'Zahr (orange blossom) waters.

Rue Charles de Gaulle, a key thoroughfare from Tunisia’s colonial era, is now the commercial pulse of central Tunis. Shopfronts line the sidewalks, anchored by the Marché Central — a must-visit for food stalls, local crafts and people watching. The street’s constant buzz offers both retail therapy and a slice of urban Tunisian life.

Librairie Diwan occupies a historic Zeytuniye madrasa, where 15th-century scholars once studied next to Al-Zaytuna Mosque. Today, its arched alcoves house curated shelves of travel guides, art books and Tunisian literature in multiple languages. Between the books, discover handcrafted souvenirs: from miniature mosaic tables to leather-bound journals. The space itself is the main attraction, with original tilework and carved cedar ceilings framing quiet reading corners. A thoughtful stop for travellers seeking meaningful mementos, it’s conveniently located near the mosque’s northern entrance.

Marché Lafayette offers a more compact alternative to the Central Market of Tunis, specialising in fresh produce. Autumn brings ruby pomegranates and early citrus, while summer stalls overflow with figs and cactus fruit. Year-round, vendors display Tunisian staples like Deglet Nour dates and Saharan olives. Follow the scent of fresh mint to herb stalls, where bundles of green contrast with baskets of dried peppers. Though some protein stalls exist, the vibrant fruit and vegetable stands remain the main attraction. For peak freshness, arrive before the midday heat.

Deyma is an artisan sweets shop that turns dates into edible pieces of art by stuffing them with pistachio paste, covering them with chocolate and transforming them in all sorts of delicious ways. Boxes of sweets from here make perfect gifts and souvenirs.