Istanbul

It’s said that if you’ve never tried a Turkish bath then you’ve never been really clean. The visitor moves through several hot rooms and finally arrives at the massage table for a real going over. Men and women bathe separately, exceptions are made at certain times for tourists. Here is one recommended bathhouse: Çemberlitas Hamam. Situated near the Bazaar, this is the oldest hamam in town and was reputedly built by the master architect Sinan.

The palace of the sultans with its many courtyards and gates brings on a nostalgia for times forgone. There are several special museums in the area; highlights include the Treasure Chamber, where the famous dagger and Spoonmaker's diamond are true stars of the collection, and the harem, where the sultan’s wives and children lived (the two are not included in the ticket price to the palace).

Aya Sofya is a remarkable mixture of Christianity and Islam, a church with minarets and a mosque with pictures of the Virgin Mary. The building is one of the wonders of world architecture which was only surpassed after a thousand years by St. Peter’s church in the 16th-century.

Built at the beginning of the 16th-century, this is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets. The building was given its name by the 20.000 blue Iznik tiles used in its construction.

Süleymaniye is the largest mosque dating from 1557 and also contains the mausoleum of sultan Süleyman and his wife Roxelane. The master architect Sinan built many of Istanbul’s mosques during the 1500s and is buried next to the mosque.

The Monastery was founded in the 5th century and contains wonderfully beautiful frescos and mosaics dating from 1000-1300 representing the Virgin Mary and the life of Jesus.

The Great bazaar attracts many people – far too many if you come at rush hour. It’s a good idea to arrive early in the morning and enjoy a cup of tea in one of the cafés whilst the bazaar comes to life. There are thousands of stalls, selling virtually everything, carpets, gold, cloth, spices. The bazaar is a world of its own and it’s easy, but fun, to get lost in the teeming alleyways.

Boats travel along the shores of the Bosporus from Eminönü, they chug quietly under the bridges that connect Europe and Asia. One hour away is Anadolukavagi, a little Asian fishing village with lots of pleasant restaurants. You can travel to the largest of the Prince Islands with a Seabus, departing from Kabatas below the Dolmabahçe Palace. If you want to visit more of these islands, you can take the ordinary boat from Eminönü.

This is a lunch restaurant on the first floor of the Spice Bazaar, decorated with blue Iznik tiles. Serves traditional Turkish food with some Greek dishes.

Yakup 2 is situated on a side street to Istiklâl Cad. The owner, Yakup Arslan, serves traditional meze to bohemian regulars and cultural celebrities.

Kumkapi means "sand gate" in Turkish and is a district near Sultanahmet, located along the Marmara Sea. This is a quarter famous for its many good fish restaurants.

Halfway through the market runs the Nevizade, a lane with a string of good value Meyhanes—traditional taverns. The flower thoroughfare next to the market is a reconstructed restaurant street, but it’s a little more expensive.

The luxurious Four Seasons hotel is a converted prison from around year 1800 near the Topkapi Palace. The restaurant is in a round outbuilding on what was once the prison yard, and here you can eat like a prince.

Enjoy Aegean and Mediterranean cuisine and at the same time admire the splendid views of Istanbul from the terrace. The chefs only use the finest and daily fresh products to get that perfect taste. Vegetarian and non-allergenic menus are available on request.

This Italian restaurant opened its doors in 2004 and serves pizza and pasta. Ozi Pizza & Pasta is a small charming restaurant with a friendly owner. On the menu you will find tasty pizza dishes like barbeque lamb, seafood and Margarita.

Barbecue House is a hidden gem, located just minutes from the Blue Mosque. This is the place where you can enjoy quality Turkish food at affordable prices in a warm and cosy atmosphere. You can also expect excellent service from the welcoming staff.

On the way to the airport next to the Sea of Marmara lies Galleria, a large shopping centre - one of the first of its kind at the time of construction in 1988. The shopping center is hugely popular with visitors, and contains about 140 shops (most of which Turkish), 5 cinemas and a bowling alley.

A good shopping district is the long Bagdat Caddesi on the Asiatic side. There are many trendy brand name shops here and prices are sometimes lower than in town because few tourists find this area.

The Spice Bazaar is at the base of the Galata Bridge in Eminönü, and is also called the Egyptian Bazaar because the imported spices originally came from Egypt. In the lanes around the bazaar you can buy cheese, honey, sausages and all sorts of edible delights and knick knacks.

Istiklâl Caddesi is a fashionable old street in the Pera district, now called Beyoglu. Much of the better shopping has moved to the suburb of Etiler, but some good shops still remain.

Avrupa Pasajı is a historic shopping arcade with antique shops and a great array of textile, ceramics and lamps on display.

The international airport, Atatürk Hava Limani, lies near the Sea of Marmara, around 25 km from the city centre. Buses run to Taksim Square every 30 minutes, journey time 45 min. The simplest and quickest journey is by Metro to Aksaray and takes around 35 minutes. +90 212 465 55 55 www.ataturkairport.com Istanbul’s other airport, Sabiha Gökçen, is on the Asiatic side and is used mostly by domestic flights and some smaller airlines. There is no direct transport between the airports - change at Taksim. +90 216 585 50 00 www.sgairport.com

There is one public and one private bus network, IETT and Halk Otobus, respectively. The underground, Tünel, runs from Karaköy till Istiklâl Cad in Beyoglu and takes a few minutes. There is also a museum tram up toward Taksim Square. Another tram route goes from Kabatas via Galata bridge and the Spice Bazaar to the south-western suburbs. The Metro goes from Taksim north to Levent and from Aksaray to Otogar in Esenler, where buses depart for other parts of Turkey and Europe and to the airport. Dolmuses are minibuses or large taxis that depart when they are full, and stop where you want them to. They are the cheapest form of transport. Ferries between Europe and Asia leave from Eminönü, Karaköy and Besiktas to Üsküdar, Kadiköy and Harem. Akbil is a type of payment card that can be loaded with various sums and used on buses, boats and trams. Can be bought at major junctions.

Taxis are yellow in the inner city and lilac in the suburbs. There are numerous taxi companies. Different hotels work with different companies and can book your transport to the airport. It’s best to hail a taxi on the street, or go to a taxi rank and ask for a business card. Istanbul Taxi Service +90 212 518 1518 City Transfer Istanbul +90 212 517 0090

The main post office is on Yeni Posthane Cad., near the railway station Sirkeci. Other PTT-offices are on Taksim Square and Istiklâl Cad. Open 09.00-17.00 Closed Sundays.

Pharmacy is called Eczane in Turkish. In the window of the pharmacy there is the address and telephone number of the current duty pharmacy. Istiklal Pharmacy Asmalı Mescit, Beyoğlu +90 212 244 2618 Itır Eczanesi Next to Taksim Square +90 212 244 4325

220 volt

Country number +90 Area code: 212 and 216